Explorations

Salutations dÍreland!

Since I've last posted, we've been photographing a variety of places and themes. Sunday was our sabbathing day, and started by our attending mass at Ballintubber Abbey. It is the oldest surviving abbey in all of Ireland. It has been a place of prayer since 441BC, founded by St. Patrick himself. The original abbey was constructed in 1216. Even partly destroyed in the 1600's to the restoration in the late 1800's there was mass. The abbey is 29 years older than Westminster Abbey. Each year, many make the 23 mile pilgrimmage from the abbey to Croagh Patrick, walking through farm fields and using the stiles (openings) in the stone walls for passage.

During the time of the Penal Law (when catholics weren't allowed to publicly honor their faith, there were priest hunters. When one tried to kill the priest of Ballintubber Abbey he failed, only wounding him. When the hunter died, the priest had him buried near the entrance to the abbey. A tree grew up there splitting the grave in half and uprooting the hunter. How spooky...

The afternoon was spent at Carrickahowley Castle - one of the five belonging to the pirate queen of Westport: Granuaile - Grace O'Malley. Let me tell you, it may look small in stature but it actually held over 500 people in its time, and they were even succesful at keeping the British out of Clew Bay. After three weeks of battle, the British army gave up and went home.

As a pirate queen, Grace stole from ships carrying goods. If they agreed to let her board, she'd steal everything. If they didn't, she'd steal everything and then some. This put a little dent in the tax collection for England. She had a great following for those local, as she didn't keep the money. She used it to help support the poor. A female Robin Hood.:-)

This particular castle is the official O'Malley clan's mainland castle. If you are an O'Malley, you may be part of that clan and would have a right (the honor) of visiting the properties with much greater access.

On Monday morning, we explored Sheaffrey Wood: home to the magic of Ireland. While Olcan played his flute the fairies snuck in and out of the photographs sometimes dancing and other times seeking mischief. Near the road is an abandoned house, further up are the fox gloves, bot cotton, and fly traps: local flora that add color to such a thick green backdrop.

Walking the river's edge, it felt like home with fish jumping (sorry, Devin - didn't catch any!), bugs biting, and the clouds creating a peek-a-boo feel with the rolling mountain backdrop.

That afternoon, we made new friends in Leenane, tucked in between mountains. This place, this community is the essence of Connemara with the pub (short for public house) being the lifeblood and gathering place in this single street village. I met Antoinette from the east coast of Ireland and her friend John from Inisturk, who danced when Olcan played; he even taught our photography guide a few of the steps.

Hilary, the long-time owner of the pub, even invited me behind the bar to get a better view to photograph some of the others. Every time he saw a camera, he'd stop and pose. I did finally capture his image when he wasn't looking, but it took some time indeed.

If Leenane seems familiar in name, it may be because there was a film made called "The Field" or, if you're a history conniseur, you may have already read about the Doo Lough tragedy. When the village of from Leah Mountain heard that there were supplies in the next village, they walked the Doo Lough Pass over the mountain in an effort to survive. Part of the walk included passing a lake. Well, Leenane was that "next village" and there were no supplies. Tired and weakened, they decided to walk home. With heavy rains, the lake rose too quickly and over 500 people drowned.

The Chocktow Tribe in the US heard about their plight and having survived their own Trail of Tears, sent $100 to help the survivors. Now, each year there is a pilgrimmage walk to honor the victims and raise money to eradicate hunger.

Next post, I'll update you to the final days of this journey with my fellow photographers - and share a bit about "faire gortha" - Great Hunger. Until then, safe journeys...